The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is one of the most iconic luxury sports watches in the history of horology. It was born in 1975, at a time when the Swiss watch industry was facing a major challenge from the rise of quartz technology. The Laureato was not only a response to this crisis, but also a statement of innovation and excellence from Girard-Perregaux, one of the oldest and most prestigious watchmakers in the world.
## The First Laureato: A Quartz Chronometer
The first Laureato was a 35mm watch with a stainless steel case and an 18K gold octagonal bezel. It featured a white dial with Clous de Paris embossing, baton hands and applied indexes, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The dial also proudly displayed the word “Chronometer”, indicating that the watch had passed rigorous accuracy tests.
The movement that powered the first Laureato was the caliber 705, an in-house quartz movement that beat at 32,768 Hz, which became the standard frequency for most quartz movements ever since. Girard-Perregaux was one of the pioneers of quartz technology, having introduced the first Swiss-made quartz movement, the Elcron caliber, in 1970. The Laureato represented the third generation of GP’s quartz movements, which were thinner, more reliable, and more precise than their predecessors.
The name “Laureato” was suggested by Girard-Perregaux’s Italian distributor, who was inspired by the 1967 film “The Graduate”, or “Il Laureato” in Italian. The name also evoked a sense of achievement and distinction, as well as a connection to the Italian market, which was very important for GP at the time.
The first Laureato was a success, and Girard-Perregaux continued to develop its quartz line, adding new functions and variations until 1995. Some of the notable models included the Laureato Perpetual Calendar, the Laureato Chronograph, and the Laureato Tourbillon with Sapphire Bridges.
## The First Mechanical Laureato: A New Era
In 1995, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Laureato, Girard-Perregaux introduced its first mechanical version of the watch. It was a 36mm model with a stainless steel case and bracelet, and a blue dial with Clous de Paris embossing. The movement was the caliber 3100, an ultra-thin automatic movement with a date function.
The mechanical Laureato marked a new era for Girard-Perregaux, as well as for the Swiss watch industry, which had recovered from the quartz crisis and regained its reputation for mechanical excellence. The mechanical Laureato also appealed to a new generation of watch enthusiasts who appreciated its classic design and modern performance.
Girard-Perregaux expanded its mechanical Laureato collection with new sizes, materials, colors, and complications. Some of the highlights included the Laureato EVO3 Chronograph, the Laureato EVO3 GMT Power Reserve, and the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic.
## The Current Laureato: A Modern Classic
In 2016, to commemorate its 225th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux relaunched the Laureato collection with two limited edition models: the Heritage Laureato Automatic in 41mm and 34mm sizes. These models were faithful to the original design of the first Laureato, but with updated movements and materials.
In 2017, Girard-Perregaux unveiled its fifth generation of the Laureato collection, which consisted of four sizes (34mm, 38mm, 42mm, and 45mm), four materials (stainless steel, titanium, ceramic, and gold), and four movements (quartz, automatic three-hand, automatic chronograph, and skeleton). The new Laureato collection offered a wide range of options for different tastes and preferences, while maintaining its distinctive identity and heritage.
One of the most recent additions to the Laureato collection is the Laureato 38mm Copper⁶, which was introduced in October 2022. This model features a stainless steel case with an octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet. The dial is made of copper with Clous de Paris embossing and has a warm reddish-brown hue that changes depending on the light. The movement is the caliber GP03300-0139⁷, an automatic movement with a date function and a power reserve of 46 hours.
## The Laureato 38mm Copper
I had the opportunity to try on the Laureato 38mm Copper from my friend, and I must say I was very impressed by this watch. It has a perfect balance between sportiness and elegance, between tradition and modernity. It is comfortable on the wrist thanks to its slim profile and smooth bracelet. It is easy to read thanks to its clear dial and luminous hands. It is versatile enough to suit any occasion, from casual to formal.
The copper dial is the star of the show, as it gives the watch a unique character and charm. It has a rich and warm color that contrasts nicely with the steel case and bracelet. It also has a subtle texture that adds depth and interest to the dial. The copper dial is not flashy or ostentatious, but rather refined and sophisticated.
The Laureato 38mm Copper is a watch that I would love to own and wear. It is a watch that reflects Girard-Perregaux’s history of innovation and elegance, as well as its current relevance and appeal. It is a watch that honors the legacy of the Laureato, while adding a new twist to its timeless design. It is a watch that deserves to be called a modern classic.