In the world of haute horology, few brands command the reverence of Breguet, a name synonymous with innovation, elegance, and historical significance. The Breguet Marine Blue White Gold 40mm 5517BB/Y2/5ZU is a shining testament to this legacy, blending the brand’s maritime heritage with cutting-edge craftsmanship. Part of the iconic Marine collection, this timepiece captures the spirit of the open sea while delivering the sophistication expected from a modern luxury watch. In this Revolution-style review, we dive deep into the design, dial, movement, and overall allure of this remarkable watch, crafted to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.
A Design That Sails Through Time
From the moment you lay eyes on the Breguet Marine 5517BB/Y2/5ZU, its commanding presence is undeniable. Housed in a 40mm 18K white gold case, the watch strikes a perfect balance between sporty robustness and refined elegance. The case features a brushed and polished finish, with the brand’s signature fluted case band adding a classical touch that harks back to Breguet’s storied past. This fluted detail, combined with the central lugs and integrated strap design, creates a cohesive aesthetic that feels both timeless and contemporary.
The watch is crowned with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and durability, while the blue rubber strap—a nod to the Marine collection’s nautical roots—offers comfort and versatility. With a 100-meter water resistance, this timepiece is more than a dress watch; it’s a companion for light aquatic adventures, embodying the spirit of exploration that defines the Marine line. The interplay of white gold’s cool sheen and the vibrant blue strap makes this watch a standout, whether paired with a tailored suit or casual attire.
The Dial: A Wave of Artistry
The heart of the Breguet Marine 5517BB/Y2/5ZU lies in its mesmerizing blue dial, a canvas that evokes the rolling waves of the ocean. The dial is divided into two distinct textures: a fine brushed chapter ring encircling a hand-engraved wave pattern at the center. This intricate guilloché work, a hallmark of Breguet’s craftsmanship, captures light in a way that seems to ripple across the surface, reinforcing the watch’s maritime inspiration.
Readability is paramount, and Breguet delivers with applied Roman numeral hour markers, each filled with luminous material for low-light visibility. The faceted hands, also luminous-tipped, glide effortlessly, offering precision and elegance in equal measure. A date window at 3 o’clock, magnified for clarity, adds practicality without disrupting the dial’s harmony. The luminous dot minute/seconds track further enhances functionality, ensuring this watch is as reliable as it is beautiful. Every detail, from the wave motif to the luminous accents, underscores Breguet’s ability to marry form and function.
The Movement: A Technological Triumph
Beneath the sapphire caseback lies the Breguet Caliber 777A, an automatic movement that exemplifies the brand’s technical prowess. Beating at 28,800 vph (4Hz) with 26 jewels, this movement ensures smooth, accurate timekeeping. Its 55-hour power reserve offers ample reliability, making it ideal for daily wear or occasional use.
What sets the Caliber 777A apart is its use of silicon components, including an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns and a flat balance spring. These advancements enhance resistance to magnetic fields and improve long-term performance, showcasing Breguet’s forward-thinking approach to horology. The movement is meticulously finished, with Côtes de Genève and perlage visible through the caseback, a treat for collectors who appreciate the art of watchmaking. This blend of tradition and innovation positions the 5517BB/Y2/5ZU as a modern classic.
The Marine Collection: A Legacy of Nautical Excellence
The Marine collection is steeped in Breguet’s historical role as the official chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy, a title bestowed in 1815 by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet. Launched in 1990, the collection pays homage to this maritime legacy while embracing contemporary design. The 5517BB/Y2/5ZU embodies this ethos, combining nautical motifs like the wave-patterned dial with modern features such as enhanced water resistance and advanced materials.
Over the years, the Marine collection has evolved, introducing complications like chronographs, GMT functions, and tourbillons. Notable milestones include the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 in 2017 and the titanium models unveiled at Baselworld 2018. The collection’s defining features—crown guards, luminous Roman numerals, and integrated straps—reflect a commitment to both heritage and innovation, making the 5517BB/Y2/5ZU a proud ambassador of this lineage.
Why It Stands Out
The Breguet Marine Blue White Gold 40mm 5517BB/Y2/5ZU is more than a watch; it’s a statement of intent. It competes with luxury sports watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, yet it carves its own path with its nautical narrative and technical sophistication. Priced around $24,680 (based on retail listings), it offers exceptional value for a white gold timepiece with such pedigree. Its versatility—equally at home in boardrooms or on yacht decks—makes it a compelling choice for discerning collectors.
Final Thoughts
The Breguet Marine Blue White Gold 40mm 5517BB/Y2/5ZU is a triumph of design, craftsmanship, and heritage. Its wave-patterned blue dial, 18K white gold case, and Caliber 777A movement combine to create a timepiece that is both a visual delight and a technical marvel. For those seeking a watch that embodies the spirit of the sea while delivering uncompromising luxury, this Marine is a beacon of excellence. Breguet has once again proven why it remains a titan of horology, and the 5517BB/Y2/5ZU is a worthy addition to any collection.
Specifications Table
Feature | Details |
---|---|
Model | Breguet Marine Blue White Gold 40mm 5517BB/Y2/5ZU |
Case Material | 18K White Gold, Brushed and Polished |
Case Diameter | 40mm |
Case Thickness | Approx. 11.5mm |
Crystal | Anti-Reflective Scratch-Resistant Sapphire |
Water Resistance | 100 meters (330 feet) |
Dial | Blue with Hand-Engraved Wave Pattern, Brushed Chapter Ring |
Hour Markers | Applied Luminous Roman Numerals |
Hands | Faceted, Luminous-Tipped |
Functions | Hours, Minutes, Center Seconds, Date at 3 o’clock |
Movement | Breguet Caliber 777A, Automatic |
Frequency | 28,800 vph (4Hz) |
Jewels | 26 |
Power Reserve | 55 hours |
Escapement | Inverted In-Line Lever with Silicon Horns |
Balance Spring | Flat, Silicon |
Strap | Blue Rubber with 18K White Gold Deployant Buckle |
Retail Price | Approx. $24,680 (subject to retailer) |
Sources: Prestige Time, Watches World, WatchTime
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