In-Depth Review: Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Blue 40mm 4600E/110A-B487

A Timeless Entry into Luxury Horology

When Vacheron Constantin introduced the FiftySix collection in 2018, it was a bold move for a brand synonymous with high-end horology since its founding in 1755. Known for its intricate complications and in-house movements, Vacheron Constantin took a surprising turn with the FiftySix, aiming to create an entry-level line that still carried the weight of its storied heritage.

The FiftySix Blue 40mm 4600E/110A-B487, with its striking petrol blue dial and stainless steel construction, stands as a testament to this ambition—a watch that balances vintage inspiration with modern wearability, all while inviting a new audience into the world of one of the “Holy Trinity” watchmakers. Let’s dive into what makes this timepiece tick, from its design and movement to its place in the luxury watch landscape, with a deeper look into the Caliber 1326 and its implications.

A Design Rooted in History, Tailored for Today

The FiftySix collection draws its inspiration from the Reference 6073, a 1956 Vacheron Constantin model that embodied the optimism of the post-war era with its architectural case design and sector dial. The 4600E/110A-B487 modernizes this aesthetic, blending retro charm with contemporary refinement.

The 40mm stainless steel case, with a slim 9.6mm thickness, feels just right on the wrist—neither too large nor too dainty, making it a versatile choice for both formal and casual settings. The case features a polished bezel and satin-finished sides, with lugs that subtly echo the Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s iconic emblem. This motif is a recurring theme, appearing on the crown, the oscillating weight, and even in the overall case design, where each lug represents a branch of the cross.

The petrol blue dial is the star of the show, with an opaline center that catches the light softly and a sunburst satin exterior that adds depth and dynamism. The sector dial layout, a nod to the 1956 original, features concentric circles that guide the eye outward, with Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, paired with baton markers elsewhere. The 18K gold hands and markers are coated with blue SuperLuminova, a practical touch that’s somewhat unexpected for a dress watch but ensures legibility in low light. A date window at 3 o’clock, framed by a subtle steel border, adds functionality without disrupting the dial’s symmetry. The overall effect is one of understated elegance—clean, balanced, and timeless, yet with a modern vibrancy thanks to that rich blue hue.

The stainless steel bracelet is another highlight, with its three-link design alternating between polished and satin-finished surfaces. It’s comfortable and well-executed, with a fitting system that allows for up to 4mm of wrist adjustment—a thoughtful detail that ensures a perfect fit as your wrist expands or contracts throughout the day. The clasp, also adorned with the Maltese cross, feels secure and adds a touch of refinement to the overall package.

The Heart of the Matter: Caliber 1326 and the In-House Debate

Powering the 4600E/110A-B487 is the Caliber 1326, a self-winding movement that has sparked significant discussion among watch enthusiasts. With a 48-hour power reserve, 142 components, and 25 jewels, it operates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), delivering reliable timekeeping with central seconds and a date function. The transparent sapphire caseback offers a glimpse of the movement, where a 22K gold oscillating weight shaped like the Maltese cross steals the spotlight. The rotor’s design is a visual treat, with its intricate detailing and warm gold tone contrasting beautifully against the steel bridges and gears, which are finished with perlage and Côtes de Genève patterns.

However, the Caliber 1326 is not an in-house movement in the traditional sense, a point that has been a source of contention since the FiftySix collection’s debut. Vacheron Constantin, as part of the Richemont Group, sources the base architecture of the Caliber 1326 from Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier, a movement manufacturer also owned by Richemont. This base is derived from the Cartier 1904 MC, a movement originally developed for Cartier’s Calibre de Cartier collection. Vacheron Constantin then takes this base, modifies it, and applies its own finishing, assembly, and regulation processes at its Geneva facilities. The modifications include the addition of the Maltese cross-shaped rotor and specific adjustments to meet Vacheron’s standards, but the core design and production of the movement’s components are not exclusive to Vacheron Constantin.

This outsourcing decision is a departure from Vacheron Constantin’s long-standing reputation for in-house movements, such as the Caliber 1400 or the intricate calibers found in the Overseas and Patrimony collections, many of which bear the prestigious Geneva Seal—a certification of quality and origin that Vacheron has historically championed. The Caliber 1326, while well-finished and reliable, does not carry the Geneva Seal, nor does it feature the level of bespoke craftsmanship that collectors expect from a brand of Vacheron’s caliber. For example, the movement lacks the hand-finishing details like anglage (chamfered edges) or black polishing that are hallmarks of Vacheron’s higher-end calibers. Instead, it prioritizes functionality and cost-efficiency, with a focus on automated finishing techniques that still achieve a high standard but don’t reach the artisanal level of Vacheron’s fully in-house movements.

The decision to use a non-in-house movement was likely driven by the FiftySix’s positioning as an entry-level model. By leveraging a shared movement within the Richemont Group, Vacheron Constantin was able to keep production costs down, allowing the 4600E/110A-B487 to retail at around $25,500—a relatively accessible price for the brand. However, this choice has drawn criticism from purists who argue that a Vacheron Constantin watch, even an entry-level one, should feature a fully proprietary movement to justify its price and heritage. Some enthusiasts point out that competitors like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, in a similar price range, often offer in-house movements, such as the Caliber 324 S C in the Patek Philippe Calatrava or the Caliber 3120 in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. On the other hand, defenders of the Caliber 1326 argue that its performance is solid—48 hours of power reserve is competitive, and the 4 Hz frequency ensures smooth and accurate timekeeping—and that the movement’s finishing, while not hand-crafted, is still visually appealing and appropriate for the price point.

From a practical perspective, the Caliber 1326 performs admirably. It’s a workhorse movement, designed for reliability and ease of maintenance, with a balance stop mechanism for precise time-setting and a date function that’s quick to adjust via the crown. The 22K gold rotor adds a touch of luxury, and the movement’s overall presentation through the caseback is attractive, even if it doesn’t match the intricacy of Vacheron’s higher-end calibers. For many buyers, especially those new to the brand, the non-in-house nature of the movement may be a non-issue, particularly given the watch’s overall design and wearability. But for collectors who value the artisanal heritage of Vacheron Constantin, the Caliber 1326 remains a point of contention—a reminder that the FiftySix is, at its core, a compromise to broaden the brand’s appeal.

Specifications Table

Wearability and Versatility

On the wrist, the FiftySix Blue 40mm feels like a watch that can do it all. The 40mm case size is a sweet spot for most wrist sizes, and the 9.6mm thickness ensures it slips easily under a cuff, making it an ideal dress watch. Yet, the steel bracelet and luminous hands give it a sporty edge, allowing it to pair just as well with a polo shirt and jeans as it does with a suit.

The bracelet’s adjustment system is a small but significant feature, ensuring comfort throughout the day—a detail that’s often overlooked in luxury watches but makes a big difference in daily wear. The blue dial adds a pop of personality without being ostentatious, and the SuperLuminova on the hands and markers is a practical touch that I found surprisingly useful during evening events.

At 30 meters of water resistance, it’s not a watch for swimming or diving, but it can handle the occasional splash or rain shower without issue. Overall, the 4600E/110A-B487 strikes a rare balance between elegance and everyday functionality, making it a true all-rounder in the luxury watch world.

Market Positioning and Value

Priced around $25,500, the FiftySix Blue 40mm is positioned as an entry-level model for Vacheron Constantin, a brand where prices often soar into the six figures. Compared to collections like the Overseas or Patrimony, which typically start at higher price points, the FiftySix offers a more accessible entry into the brand’s universe.

This price point pits it against competitors like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control or the IWC Portugieser Automatic, both of which also offer steel-cased dress watches with automatic movements. However, the Vacheron Constantin name carries a certain cachet, and the FiftySix’s blend of vintage-inspired design and modern execution gives it a unique edge in this segment.

The use of a non-in-house movement does impact its value proposition. For context, a Patek Philippe Calatrava or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in a similar price range would likely feature an in-house movement, though those brands also command a premium for their name. The FiftySix, then, is a compromise—but a well-executed one. It delivers the Vacheron Constantin experience—heritage, craftsmanship, and elegance—at a more approachable price, making it an attractive option for those new to the brand or looking for a versatile daily wearer.

The Caliber 1326, while not proprietary, is a reliable choice that keeps costs down without sacrificing too much in terms of performance or aesthetics, making the watch a compelling entry point into the brand.

Final Thoughts

The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Blue 40mm 4600E/110A-B487 is a watch that grows on you. At first glance, its retro-modern design and vibrant blue dial draw you in, but it’s the details—the Maltese cross motifs, the adjustable bracelet, the luminous hands—that make you appreciate its thoughtfulness.

The Caliber 1326 may not be in-house, and its origins from Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier may disappoint some purists, but it’s a reliable, well-finished movement that gets the job done, with a 48-hour power reserve and a visually appealing presentation through the caseback. On the wrist, it feels like a watch that can go anywhere, from a boardroom to a weekend getaway, all while carrying the prestige of one of the oldest watchmakers in the world.

For those looking to step into the world of Vacheron Constantin without breaking the bank, the FiftySix Blue 40mm is a compelling choice. It’s not without its compromises—the non-in-house movement being the most notable—but it delivers where it counts: design, wearability, and brand heritage. In a market crowded with steel dress watches, the 4600E/110A-B487 stands out as a piece that honors the past while embracing the present, making it a worthy addition to any collection.