The Allure of Salmon: A Deep Dive into the Roger Dubuis Sympathies S37.57.0

A Legacy Forged in Mastery

The story of Roger Dubuis begins long before the brand’s founding in 1995. Roger Dubuis himself was a horological luminary, having spent two decades at Patek Philippe mastering the art of complicated timepieces, following a nine-year stint at Longines where he honed his skills repairing chronographs. His career also included a period in the late 1980s as an independent restorer of antique clocks and watches, during which he contributed to the development of modules for Lemania chronograph movements, such as those in the Lemania 8800 family. This rich pedigree laid the foundation for the Roger Dubuis brand, which emerged as a collaboration with Carlos Dias, a designer and businessman whose creative vision complemented Dubuis’s technical expertise. Together, they launched the Sympathies and Hommage collections in 1996, marking the brand’s entry into the world of high horology with a bold statement of intent.

The Sympathies collection, in particular, reflects the brand’s early philosophy of blending traditional watchmaking with innovative design. Unlike the more flamboyant creations that would later define Roger Dubuis under Richemont ownership, these early models exude a classical restraint that resonates deeply with collectors. The S37.57.0, with its salmon guilloche dial, is a prime example of this ethos—a watch that marries technical excellence with aesthetic sophistication, all while bearing the prestigious Geneva Seal, a certification Roger Dubuis shared with only Patek Philippe at the time for every timepiece produced.

The Heart of the Matter: The Caliber RD57

At the core of the Sympathies S37.57.0 beats the Caliber RD57, an automatic movement with a storied lineage. This caliber is based on the Longines L990, a historically significant movement renowned for its ultra-thin profile (2.95mm) and reliability. The L990, introduced by Longines in the 1970s, was celebrated for its twin-barrel design, which ensured consistent torque delivery, and its adoption by other prestigious brands like Breguet speaks to its quality (Source: The Hour Markers, “A Throwback to The Early Roger Dubuis Creations”). While Roger Dubuis had experience working on Lemania chronograph movements earlier in his career, the RD57 is distinctly derived from the L990, a time-only automatic movement, not a chronograph base like the Lemania 8810 (Source: A Collected Man, “Roger Dubuis Sympathie Chronograph S37 56 0”). Roger Dubuis elevated this base movement to new heights with meticulous enhancements that reflect the brand’s commitment to excellence.

The RD57 features several notable improvements over the original L990. Roger Dubuis applied Côtes de Genève decoration to the movement’s bridges, a hallmark of high-end finishing that adds a shimmering, wave-like pattern. The screw heads were black-polished to a mirror-like sheen, and the edges of the components were hand-beveled, showcasing an artisanal touch. A swan neck fine adjustment mechanism was incorporated, allowing for precise regulation of the balance wheel, while the movement was equipped with a hacking seconds function for accurate time-setting (Source: A Collected Man). Operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) with 25 jewels, the RD57 delivers a 44-hour power reserve, balancing performance with practicality. Most impressively, each RD57 was rigorously tested to earn both the Geneva Seal and the Bulletin d’Observatoire French chronometer certification, ensuring exceptional accuracy and quality. These enhancements transformed the L990 into a movement worthy of the Roger Dubuis name, making the S37.57.0 a true horological masterpiece.

A Design That Captivates

The aesthetic allure of the Sympathies S37.57.0 is undeniable. Encased in a 37mm 18k gold “carre cambre” case—a signature of the Sympathie collection—this watch blends the sharp lines of a square with the soft curves of a circle, creating a silhouette that’s both distinctive and timeless. The case, often described as “round-square,” features a multi-stepped bezel and vertically brushed flanks, adding subtle visual depth. The use of screws instead of traditional spring bars to secure the strap enhances durability, a thoughtful detail that underscores the watch’s robust construction.

The true star, however, is the salmon guilloche dial, a feature that elevates the S37.57.0 to a collector’s dream. Salmon dials have long held a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts, their warm, vintage hue evoking a sense of nostalgia and rarity. The guilloche pattern, meticulously engraved by hand or machine, radiates from the center in a wave-like design, creating a mesmerizing interplay of light and texture. Applied Breguet numerals in gold at 12, 3, 6, and 9 add a classical touch, while the leaf-style hands, crafted in white gold, provide a refined contrast against the dial’s warm tones. The bezel features a tachymeter scale, a curious addition for a time-only watch, likely included for aesthetic purposes rather than functionality—a nod to the watch’s unique character. The case back proudly displays its limited-edition status, engraved with “SERIEN-NR. 102/28,” marking it as the 102nd piece in a run of just 28.

A Collector’s Prize: Rarity and Value

The Roger Dubuis Sympathies S37.57.0 commands a formidable presence in today’s market, with prices reflecting its rarity and desirability. While exact figures for this specific salmon guilloche variant are scarce, similar Sympathies models provide a clear picture of its value. Listings for S37 models range from $26,100 for a white gold version with a silver dial to $33,861 for a rose gold variant with a black guilloche dial, while auction estimates for Sympathies S37 models span $8,000 to $25,740, with some chronograph versions fetching up to CHF 58,000 at hammer. Given its limited production of just 28 pieces, the S37.57.0 with the salmon guilloche dial likely falls within the $20,000 to $40,000 range, a testament to its scarcity and appeal.

Several factors drive this high valuation. First and foremost is its limited production—only 28 examples of this configuration were ever made, making it a true rarity in the collector’s market. The salmon guilloche dial, with its vintage charm and intricate craftsmanship, adds significant aesthetic value, while the historical significance of early Roger Dubuis pieces enhances its allure. The Caliber RD57, with its prestigious certifications and meticulous finishing, further justifies its price, as does the watch’s construction in 18k gold. The growing appreciation for early Roger Dubuis models, particularly those from the brand’s formative years, has fueled a surge in demand, positioning the S37.57.0 as a coveted treasure for discerning collectors.

A Timeless Legacy

When compared to other high-end dress watches of the 1990s, the Sympathies S37.57.0 stands out for its unique blend of innovation and tradition. While Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Ref. 3919 and Audemars Piguet’s Jules Audemars 15052 epitomized elegance with their classic round cases, the Sympathies’ “carre cambre” shape offered a fresh perspective, blending Art Deco influences with modern design. Its dual certifications—Geneva Seal and Bulletin d’Observatoire—place it in the same echelon as the era’s most prestigious timepieces, while its limited production of 28 pieces makes it far rarer than many contemporaries.

The Roger Dubuis Sympathies S37.57.0 with its salmon guilloche dial is more than just a watch—it’s a piece of horological history. It embodies the vision of a master watchmaker who dared to dream big, combining the finest traditions of Swiss craftsmanship with a bold, distinctive aesthetic. For collectors, it represents a rare opportunity to own a piece of Roger Dubuis’s early legacy, a time when the brand was a pioneer in the revival of independent watchmaking. With its exquisite design, exceptional movement, and unparalleled rarity, the S37.57.0 is a timeless treasure that continues to captivate and inspire, proving that true beauty in horology is, indeed, eternal.

Roger Dubuis Sympathies S37.57.0 Specifications